Monday, 26 September 2016

Pleats, cape and underwear

I've made a waistband for the outerskirt, and have started to attach it, ready for another fitting tomorrow. All the skirts from the mid 1860s that I can find appear to have cartridge pleating at the back- so there was nothing for it but to dive in and do them properly. They are a more complicated form of pleating, made by running two strong threads through at regular intervals, so that it pulls tightly into a regular concertinaed pleat. This enables you to get more fabric gathered into a short space.


This photo shows how they sit at the back of the bodice

I've also cut out a shape to try on for the cape. I think at the moment it is longer than I want it to be when finished, but it's good to cut longer to begin with and then shorten if required. I think this fabric will end up being the lining.

Here are some very simple undergarments I have cut out. The Victorian ones were usually more delicate and covered in lace- but I want these to represent the plain base cloth in the printing process, so I'm not sure it it is suitable to make them overly frilly! I shall see how they look in the fitting, and this may inform how much detail to add or not.

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