Wednesday, 14 September 2016

Bodice alterations

I took the bodice apart and altered the panels according to yesterday's fitting- this meant re-cutting the pieces as some needed to be longer in places, or the seams needed shifting to make it look a bit more in keeping with the design I'm following. 
I cut the pieces in two fabrics- a backing and an outer fabric. To the backing I attached some boning, before tacking the outer fabric on. This means the boning channels won't be visible on the outer fabric. I have used plastic boning for this garment, as it only requires some light structure- the steel bones in the corset do more of the work.

After tacking the backing and outer fabrics together by hand, I then overlocked around each panel to hold them firmly together, and to seal all the loose threads in and prevent fraying. It's important to tack them first for two reasons- firstly the fabrics tend to move around too much for this to be effective without tacking- and pins never do the job quite as well. Secondly, if you did try using pins they can also damage the machine's needles, or worse the cutting blade. The cutting blade trims the fabric as you overlock, so that there are no loose threads sticking out- but it also means you have to be controlled or you might just cut a big hole in the fabric by accident (yes I've done this before!).

Finally today I sewed the bodice back together and remade the sleeves in some colourful fabrics! I'm beginning to introduce more fun colours- pink and white are not enough for one of my creations- and this is a dress that wants to appear bold and outrageous in a factory environment! 

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