Printed fabrics arrive!

Here you can see the different files that I sent for printing at Standfast. I'm really excited to have the final fabric puzzle piece in place for my project- now all parts of the costume can be finished! I got it printed in two different sizes, to see which works best. I really like the bold circles in the larger images- but overall less images would be included if I cut a shape from that piece.

So here I am cutting out the cape pattern in the fabric with the smaller print. I'm sure I shall find a use for the larger images too...

Ruffles!

One of my favourite inventions is the pleating/ruffler foot for sewing machines- this magical device scoops the fabric into a nice even pleat with every stitch (or every six or twelve stitches depending on the setting). It's a massive time saver, and much more regular than pleating by hand. Though it still took hours to make this many metres, as preparing the strip for ruffling still involves much cutting, pressing and edging first.

I re cut the 'bertha', as this piece of neck decoration is called. The previous way I had cut it had the fabric going in to the armhole, and after a bit more checking of historical references I felt it was more correct for the front and back to meet at the shoulder seam and sit slightly over the sleeve seam. I am yet to affix it properly- just pinned in this photo.

I have affixed the ruffles on the skirt and the sleeve to give a stronger contrast between the fabrics.

And finally today I have begun hand stitching the white diamonds to the purple ones- I want them to sit flat on top of one another, but don't want a visible stitching line, so hand stitching is the way forward!

Alterations and detail

I've made some decorative diamonds, following in the style of a few skirts I've seen from the 1860's. I thought this butterflies print was very eye catching and unusual when I saw it in Standfast, so it's nice to find a place to fit it in!

The cartridge pleating is now officially stitched into place, and the waistband of the outer skirt finished except for a fastening (I shall do these for all the garments in one go!). Today I also took up the hem of the skirt and finished it off- after moving the turquoise layer of fabric up a few inches to avoid loosing too much of it. I hemmed the turquoise layer and the pink layer separately as I felt this would give a sense of more thickness at the bottom, and with more layers it should be harder for the outerskirt to get pulled under the lowest edge of the crinoline. 

I've started positioning the diamonds on the skirt- but more to do tomorrow! 

Second fitting

I was pleased with the progress of the costume for the second fitting. The box pleated hem sat at the correct height from the floor, which was a relief- I wouldn't like to do that again! The skirt waistband was the right length too, so all I need to do for that skirt is a fastening, and it's ready to be worn.

The chemise that I have made using plain fabric worked well too, as it sits off the shoulder and is therefore nice and easy to tuck underneath the outer bodice.

The outerskirt's waistband fits well- so the next job on this is to properly affix the cartridge pleats to the waistband. Each pleat will need individually hand stitching to hold it in place 

The hem is a bit too long around the front, as most of the turquoise level is on the floor and is getting swept under the crinoline- in order to shorten the skirt but not loose the turquoise I shall have to move the turquoise up a bit. This isn't too catastrophic an alteration to make though!

I have a few alterations to make to the bodice to make it fit correctly, as this is the most critical part to be exactly right. The shoulders need reshaping slightly, and some of the side seams altering before I sew in the hooks and eyes to fasten it down the front. Then of course the decorative pleats can be sewn on properly, and maybe a few more details added!

Pleats, cape and underwear

I've made a waistband for the outerskirt, and have started to attach it, ready for another fitting tomorrow. All the skirts from the mid 1860s that I can find appear to have cartridge pleating at the back- so there was nothing for it but to dive in and do them properly. They are a more complicated form of pleating, made by running two strong threads through at regular intervals, so that it pulls tightly into a regular concertinaed pleat. This enables you to get more fabric gathered into a short space.

This photo shows how they sit at the back of the bodice

I've also cut out a shape to try on for the cape. I think at the moment it is longer than I want it to be when finished, but it's good to cut longer to begin with and then shorten if required. I think this fabric will end up being the lining.

Here are some very simple undergarments I have cut out. The Victorian ones were usually more delicate and covered in lace- but I want these to represent the plain base cloth in the printing process, so I'm not sure it it is suitable to make them overly frilly! I shall see how they look in the fitting, and this may inform how much detail to add or not.

Photo fabric printing

My sister has helped compile some photographs from my first trip to the factory into a file that shall be printed (as long as we come across no compatibility issues) on to fabric at standfast.i shall turn it into a cape to go with the dress!

Underskirt almost finished!

I finished attaching the pleats today, and also sewed on a waistband to the underskirt. I may need to adjust the height of the pleat if it is too far from the floor on my model- but I'll check this on her!-pleased to see a garment looking finished!